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It is by now old news that Panerai are marrying exotic and luxurious travel experiences to some of their most limited watches this year. And I have to say that I do envy the lucky clients that can dig out 35.000 EUR from the depth of their pockets to join these experiences that Panerai put on with their ambassadors. The experiences are unique, and the watches are all supercool.

During SIHH I had a chance to sit down with the man who put his name on one of the novelties. Guillaume Néry is the new ambassador for Panerai.
I must admit I had never heard of the dude before, but according to my French friend, he is a legend. Guillaume Néry is a world renowned freediver with several records and a huge social media following.

With a history like Panerai, building a relationship with a diver is just common sense really. And Guillaume Néry is also a personality that fit right into their already established partnership with Mike Horn, and their quest for a sustainable future for the oceans.

Guillaume Néry Panerai
Guillaume Néry Panerai

Who is this guy?

Guillaume lives half the year in Nice and the other half in the South Pacific, the French Polynesia. He has been diving non-stop for years, pushing boundaries, but then suddenly everything changed.

– In 2015, I had an accident and I stopped this quest of records, but I’m still diving. I’m still sometimes competing, but with another approach. I’m trying new experiences, which are not specifically like pushing world records limits, but more trying new things. Last year, I did a competition, I tried to go as deep as possible with almost nothing. Just a swim suit in the Mediterranean Sea.

– The idea was to make a challenge with my body and my mind to face the cold water and try to find deep inside of me the resources to find a good connection even in very hostile conditions.

– I mean for me, free-diving is like a philosophy. It’s like a lifestyle. I can enjoy just going a few meters, and just relax as much as possible. Trying to feel the connection with the sea and the ocean.
I can also enjoy exploring new places and encounter wild animals. The Sperm Whale, for instance, was very special.
Sperm Whales are very special because of what they mean to us. They are the are the animal that can dive the deepest and they can stay under for more than one hour, on one breath. On top of that, they look very special. Their looks are in between a space creatures and a submarine. They’re also very, very intelligent animals in the way they communicate, and the way they interact.

The experience

These are the exceptional sentiments and feelings Guillaume Néry and Panerai will try to convey to a group of privileged clients that will travel with him to his home base on the island of Mo’orea in the French Polynesia. It is here the 15 clients will get a unique opportunity to dive with the legend.

– I think that, at the end, that’s the best way to get people to really understand what it means. To experience. I really love that new way of sharing with the customers. Creating experience.

– There’ll maybe be people that never tried a mask on in their life. If after two or three days I can give them just a taste of the magic, I think they will remember for the rest of their life the meaning of what they had just bought. It’s not just a watch, it’s a story.

Check out the new film by Guillaume Néry

The watch – PAM983

Clients will be accompanied by a glorious Submersible for the experience. A P.9100 flyback chronograph movement sit in a 47 mm titanium watch case with a matte black DLC coating. A ceramic rotating bezel surround the highlight of the watch, a beautiful textured blue degradé dial with sea-foam green coloured accents and hands.

In my opinion Panerai may be pushing their limits whit the direction of marketing and selling these watches, but it is a bold move. And I applaud both the sympathetic and well-intentioned ambassadors and the design of the watches. I really, really hope they can pull it off.

PAM983
PAM983

Check also Guillaume Néry on Facebook

From time to time the watch world sees a new special watch from A.Lange & Söhne that has been given some extra thought.
Not many people would argue with me that A. Lange & Söhne is the best manufacture in the world. And they have an exclusive series of Handwerkskunst watches. These are in reality watches, already in production, that they give something extra of everything. Basically A. Lange & Söhne likes to show off what their artists and craftsmen can possibly do with these handcrafted artisanal watches.

This is the sixth model that A. Lange & Söhne give a particularly artistic decoration of the movement, dial and case. It is always exciting when A. Lange & Söhne give their in-house finishers, engravers and enamel artists an artistic challenge.

Launched at the Geneva Salon back in 2013, the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar attracted considerable attention. Housing a perpetual calendar and a double chronograph this watch was initially appreciated for both the classic complications and the pleasing aestethics. At the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève that same year it won the Grand Complications category. As an added bonus it also won the Public’s Choice Award. 

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar Handwerkskunst

 

The new Handwerkskunst

A classic beauty was exactly what A. Lange & Söhne released in Florence a couple of days ago. I was there to witness the grand unveiling of the new addition to the Handwerkskunst series. It was an event that really showcased the appreciation A. Lange & Söhne have for craftsmanship, or Handwerkskunst if you will.

This is the first model to combine enamel art and engraving on its dial. The craftsmen and women of A. Lange & Söhne have really given us their best with this watch. I find it to be especially desirable that the blue enamel and relief engraved stars on the dial seem to extend the moon phase display onto the dial.
To give an impression of a deep blue dial with light blue stars, a solid white gold dial has been engraved with stars and numerals of different heights. The numerals go flush with the enamel and keep their silver colour. This dial is simply stunning.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar Handwerkskunst

On the back of the watch there is a cuvette cover that protects the sapphire-crystal caseback. It depicts Luna, the Roman goddes and embodiement of the moon.
Below the sapphire-crystal the engraved stars also come back. This time on the movement. Now done with a mix of relief and tremblage technique that give a quite special surface to the engraved parts. Relief engraving is what bring out the stars, and tremblage engraving is what gives the granular texture to the german silver.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar Handwerkskunst

In my opinion this new Handwerkskunst is extraordinary. I like the classic look done in an over-the-top finish and with truly masterful craft. Set in a 41,9 mm case it also sits fairly comfortable on the wrist. According to A. Lange & Söhne themselves it is already selling at 290.000 EUR, but it will surely become a collectors dream as it will only be made 20 pieces.

See the last one here (in Norwegian)

Get more from A. Lange & Söhne

Today is obviously the day for exclusives. A. Lange & Söhne presented a special edition of the LANGE 1 TIME
ZONE honey gold today.

The date 25. october 2016 is no coincidence. It recalls the presentation of the first Lange collection 22 years ago in Dresden. Featuring a subtle detail on the rotating city ring, Central European Time is represented by Dresden.
The LANGE 1 TIME ZONE has ranked among the most popular models of the LANGE 1 watch family since 2005. The clearly organised dial delivers a single-glance reading of home time and the time in a second time zone. The time zone is set with a lateral pusher. It advances the rotating city ring with the 24 place names from west to east. On the ring, Dresden – instead of Berlin as in the standard version – represents Central European Time.

Lange 1 Time Zone honey

Additionally, the hour hand on the small subsidiary dial moves forward by one step with each actuation of the pusher. An ingenious synchronisation mechanism also makes it possible to transfer the zone time on the subsidiary dial to the main dial.
Subtle colour changes in the design of the city ring differentiate it from the standard version. The dots between the city names and GMT are blue instead of red. Now, the previously black peripheral ring of the second time zone has the same blue hue as well.
The case in 18-carat honey gold has a diameter of 41.9 millimetres. The exclusive material is harder than other gold alloys. The lavishly hand-finished manufacture calibre L031.1 is assembled twice and has a power reserve of three days.

Limited to 100 watches, the Dresden edition of the LANGE 1 TIME ZONE is available exclusively in the 17 A. Lange & Söhne boutiques.

Lange 1 Time Zone honey

After relaunching the new Pilot’s Watch collection at SIHH this year, IWC Schaffhausen has now decided to celebrate the collection’s 80th anniversary with something special for the Benelux and Scandinavian market. An exclusive Big Pilot Watch with a Perpetual Calendar. In a very limited edition.

The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Edition “A Tribute to the 1st IWC Pilot’s Watch” comes in a solid red gold case with a diameter of 46mm and has a slate-grey dial. It is powered by the IWC-manufactured 52610 caliber movement with twin barrels and ceramic movement parts. For this edition, the movement was fitted with luxurious blued screws.

exclusive Big Pilot

Featuring the amazing IWC Perpetual Calendar mechanism, the watch displays the day, date, month, moon phase and year in four digits until 2499 with only a few manual adjustments needed. The efficient Pellaton automatic winding system provides a 7-day power reserve. It’s 18 carat rose gold rotor is engraved with “36” as a reference to how many pieces of this watch were manufactured.

exclusive Big Pilot

“Within the Benelux and the Nordic region, the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch is very popular because of its iconic design. For this reason, we are proud to launch a very special and unique watch which embodies the dream of flying and celebrates the 80th anniversary of this iconic timepiece”, explains Edwin de Vries, IWC Brand Director Benelux & Scandinavia.

With the solid red gold case, the slate-grey dial and the blue alligator leather strap, the watch features a timeless combination of colours and materials. Also, the single moon phase display is rarely seen on a Perpetual Calendar and the blue colour of the sky plays nicely with the blue alligator leather strap.

exclusive Big Pilot

Christian Knoop, Creative Director IWC Schaffhausen, was personally and closely involved in the development of the watch: “From a design perspective, my challenge is to balance our brand’s DNA and to stick to the design codes of IWC, while at the same time trying to create a limited-edition watch that is special, unique and tailored to the taste of a specific market”.

Retailing at € 47.000, – the watch is available at the IWC Boutique in Amsterdam and selected IWC partners within the Benelux and Scandinavia.

Technical Data

Reference:

IWC 5038

Movement:

52610 Manufactured by IWC

Mechanical, Pellaton automatic winding

7 days power reserve

4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour) 1

54 jewels

Indications:

Perpetual calendar and moon phase

Power reserve display

Hours, minutes and small hacking seconds

Case:

18K Red gold

46 mm, 15.5 mm thick

Sapphire crystal front and back

Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 6 bar

Dial:

Ardoise dial

Strap:

Blue alligator leather strap

Buckle:

18K red gold folding clasp

Limitation:

36 watches only for Benelux and Scandinavia

iwc calibre 52610

Yesterday A. Lange & Söhne revealed the new Richard Lange Pour le Mérite in a white gold case and black dial limited to only 218 watches. It may look innocent on the outside, but inside there is a mean machine.

Since the revival of A. Lange & Söhne in the autumn of 1994, the exclusive timepieces with the attribute Pour le Mérite have represented the technological avant-garde at A. Lange & Söhne. Each of the four models launched so far is endowed with a fusée-and-chain mechanism. The Richard Lange Pour le Mérite, first introduced in 2009, exemplifies an ambitious tribute to precision in its purest form. The sole objective of its complication is to improve rate accuracy.

Richard Lange Pour le MériteThe fusée-and-chain mechanism guarantees constant torque and thus stability of the amplitude of the balance across the entire power-reserve range. Wrapped around the mainspring barrel, the chain delivers the power of the mainspring to the wheel train via the cone-shaped fusée. This keeps the torque constant. In principle, the mechanism works like the gearing of a bicycle except that the gear ratios are infinitely variable rather than fixed.

The 636-part chain can support a weight of over two kilograms. But to fully exploit the positive effect of the fusée-and-chain device, the product developers added a technical refinement: two separate mechanisms block the winding system before fully wound and fully unwound states. Both prevent the chain – which is only 0.25 millimetres thick and 156 millimetres long – from being overstressed.

The fusée-and-chain transmission causes the fusée to rotate in one direction during the winding process and in the opposite direction when the watch is running. For this reason, it is necessary to ensure that the watch continues to run even when it is being wound. An elaborate planetary gearing inside the fusée maintains the flow of power from the fusée to the movement during the winding phase. It is composed of 38 tiny parts which the watchmaker must fit into the tight 8.6-millimetre inside diameter of the fusée.

All this remains concealed beneath the black dial of the Richard Lange Pour le Mérite. But the most important parts of the fusée-and-chain device are clearly visible through the sapphire-crystal caseback.

Richard Lange Pour le Mérite

Technical Data

Reference:

260.028

Caliber:

L044.1 Lange Manufactured

Mechanical, manual-winding, fusée-and-chain transmission

31.6 mm in diameter, 6.0 mm thick

Approximately 36 hours of power reserve

279 parts (without chain), 636 in chain alone, 33 jewels

Indications:

Hours, minutes Small seconds at 4h30

Case:

White Gold

40,5 mm, 10,5 mm thick

Sapphire crystal caseback

Dial:

Solid Silver- Black

White Roman numerals

Rhodiumed gold hands

Strap:

Hand-stitched black alligator leather

Buckle:

White gold prong buckle

Richard Lange Pour le Mérite

Read more at A. Lange & Söhne

A novelty of this summer season is the beautiful American in a new suit. Crafted in precious platinum, the Historiques American 1921 is inspired by an original cushion shaped model from the 1920s. This contemporary reinterpretation of an icon from the Roaring Twenties remains loyal to the original version in every way. A crown placed between 1 and 2 o’clock was created by Vacheron Constantin for the American market.The classic yet original finely grained silvered dial bears 12 blue painted Arabic numerals and blued Breguet-type hands.

 

American 1921

Fitted with a lightly domed crystal, the 40 mm-diameter case, houses Vacheron Constantin manual-winding Caliber 4400 AS. This movement has a particularly hand-crafted finishing.

The restrained and timeless elegance of this ‘dandy chic’ American 1921 watch is complemented by a dark blue alligator leather strap fitted with a platinum buckle.

American 1921

Technical Data

Reference:

82035/000P-B168

Caliber:

4400 AS Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin

Mechanical, manual-winding

28.60 mm (12 ½ ‘’’) diameter 2.80 mm thick

Approximately 65 hours of power reserve

4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour) 1

27 components 21 jewels

Indications:

Hours, minutes Small seconds at 4h30

Case:

Platinum 950

40 x 40 mm, 8 mm thick

Transparent sapphire crystal caseback

Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)

Dial:

Silvered grain-finished

Blue painted Arabic numerals

Black painted minute-track

Blued steel hands

Strap:

Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales

Buckle:

Platinum 950 buckle

Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

One of my personal favorites of last year is now released in a new and elegant look this summer. The Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 chronograph – named after its beautifully shaped lugs.

This classic watch fitted with its distinctive ‘cow horn’ lugs is inspired by the first water-resistant chronograph designed by Vacheron Constantin in 1955. As one of the three references most sought-after by collectors, the vintage icon is reinterpreted in pink gold, in keeping with the spirit of the era of its creation.

Combining tradition, disruptive design and technical sophistication, it expresses the unconventional yet traditional chronograph construction. In the 1950s Cornes de Vache styled lugs was creating an aesthetic tension with the traditional two round pushbuttons.

Cornes de vache 1955

Caliber 1142 ensures a 48-hour power reserve, but with a special treat. Equipped with a column wheel shaped like a Maltese cross, the chronograph functions superbly. This manual-winding movement is entirely hand-decorated and revealed through the transparent back. A 38.5 mm-diameter case in 18K pink gold contrasts the silvered opaline dial perfectly. Gold hour and minute hands and a deep blue seconds hand, 30-minute counter hand and tachymetric scale enhance the this complex yet airy display.

Cornes de vache 1955

Technical Data

Reference:

5000H/000R-B059

Caliber:

1142 Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin

Mechanical, manual-winding
27.50 mm (12’’’) diameter
5.57 mm thick
Approximately 48 hours of power reserve 3Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)

164 components 21 jewels

Indications:

Hours, minutes

Small seconds at 9h

Column-wheel chronograph (30-minute counter)

Case:

18K 4N pink gold
38.50 mm diameter, 10.90 mm thick

Transparent sapphire crystal caseback

Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)

Dial:

Silvered opaline center with sun-brushed external zone (minute-track and tachometer scale)

18K 4N gold applied hour-markers
18K gold hour, minutes and small seconds hands

Blued steel chronograph and 30-minute counter hands

Strap:

Brown Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales

Buckle:

18k 4N pink gold buckle

Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

 

Cornes de vache 1955

ENDED: In a collaboration with the great manufacture Officine Panerai we offer two beautiful books for our Panerai Giveaway. Both books will be offered in a hardcover protective case. Read more about the books below.

To enter you have to visit and follow our Instagram and Facebook pages through the app on this facebook link. If you already follow us on one or more of our pages, then you just have to visit the pages through the app. To send off the price of the Panerai Giveaway we will need your email, so kindly share it with us. We will not share your private data with anyone. Go to our Privacy Policy page to see how we handle your private data, here.

The first book is a hard to get two volume works on the Special Editions of Panerai from 1997-2014. Every special edition watch is described over two pages with stunningly detailed pictures and every technical detail. This will be the reference guide of Special Edition Panerai watches throughout these years.

Panerai Giveaway - Panerai Special Editions 1997 - 2014 Book

Panerai Giveaway - Panerai Special Editions 1997 - 2014 Book

The second book is the brand new Orologeria Panerai. The book tells the story of the past and present of the Florentine high quality sports watchmaking brand. It consists of five essays covering five different aspects of the identity of Officine Panerai, each one written by a different author. The essays take the reader on a journey through the fascinating worlds which define the distinctive identity of the Florentine brand: the history, the technology, the sea and the design.

The essays by the five authors are accompanied by photographs of extraordinary beauty and evocativeness, covering various times and places as they retrace the steps which brought the Panerai legend into being.

 

Panerai Giveaway - Panerai Orologeria Book

Panerai Giveaway - Panerai Orologeria Book

Vacheron Constantin Montre pièce unique calibre 1990

In september 2015 Vacheron Constantin unveiled the most complicated watch ever seen. A pocketwatch with 57 complications known as ref 57260. The development of the superpocketwatch took 8 years for 3 superwatchmakers. Now Vacheron Constantin have let the same three watchmakers come up with a series of new watches based on the complications from ref 57260. In this first watch, Montre Pièce Unique Calibre 1990, they ended up using a double retrograde system and an armillary tourbillon.

The Caliber 1990 have both retrograde hours and minutes with instant flyback.

The tourbillon system is based on a 1880s astronomical watch with an armillary sphere. The balance spring have a spherical design that is making the two axis rotation possible. That is as far as I got before my head almost exploded. If you need more details, check out at Vacheron Constantin. Link below.

No matter how complicated in mechanics and theory, this watch is simply beautiful. In my opinion this watch represents a radical new direction for Vacheron Constantin. They usually tend to keep it classic and conservative. This is a push towards avant garde that I find fascinating and promising. I like it!

The watch is one of a kind with a 45.7 mm case in 18K white gold. 20 mm thick. The price is unknown, but it will cost you!

Vacheron Constantin Montre pièce unique calibre 1990

Vacheron Constantin calibre 1990

Vacheron Constantin calibre 1990

Vacheron Constantin Montre pièce unique calibre 1990

Read more about their watches at Vacheron Constantin.

James Bond’s prototype Omega Seamaster 300 from the movie Spectre where sold in auction last night at Christie’s. This Omega Seamaster 300 went for 118.800 EUR (92.500 GBP).

Omega Seamaster 300 Spectre

Omega Seamaster 300 Spectre Prototype

The watch is very much alike the limited boutique edition Omega Seamaster 300 “Spectre”, and it has the same Co-Axial 8400 movement, the same gray and black NATO bracelet and the same lollipop seconds hand. The watch that went at the Christie’s auction where used while shooting the Spectre movie. It also has an engraving – Proto No1.

The watch you and I can get was limited to 7007 pieces with a list price of 6400 EUR.

Read more on the Omega Seamaster 300 “Spectre” here.

Omega Seamaster 300 Spectre