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Audemars Piguet

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“187 L.A. trademark, 
don’t come to the killing fields if you ain’t got no fucking 
heart!”


That was the band Downset back in 1994. – Yes, I am old.
187 is Police code for murder, and these lines were what first struck me when Audemars Piguet released their crazy named new watchline. Code 11.59.
And while everyone paid to not think themselves praise the watch, the rest have uttered everything from shock to disgust.
Well, do Audemars Piguet have a heart for making watches?

At first glance the watch just looked stupid. Looking at it from the front it was an uninteresting dial and a strange looking case. Bloggers and Instagrammers were soon to compare these designchoices with low-end watches and Kickstarter crap. They do look similar, check it out for yourselves.
The new inhouse movements looked quite promising thou.

While everyone else bashed the watch, I wanted to try it on before going crazy on it. I have now had time to study the watch and actally wearing it for a breif period of time.

Code 11.59 Audemars Piguet Chronograph wristshot

Code 11.59 – Hands On

Audemars Piguet somehow managed to make a beautifully crafted watch with a bizzare, almost schizofrenic, look to it.
It ended up with a radical and interesting watch case, and a generic and quite boring dial. Even up close. I just can’t stand those hour markers, and don’t get me started on the font. It destroys an otherwise great watch.
Talking about the simple watch and the chronographs now. The perpetual calendar is something very special.

Code 11.59 Audemars Piguet Chronograph
Code 11.59 Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar

I love how they shaped the case. It sits great on the wrist. Despite being a rather large watch, it clasps the wrist and feels unstrenuous. Audemars Piguet also hid a Royal Oak inside this watch. And as on the Royal Oak, the case on Code 11.59 is finished to perfection. The light bounces off the edges on it, just like on the Royal Oaks, the Offshores and the Concepts.
Yes, the case is radical, but so was the Royal Oak. No one liked that watch back in the 1970s. And not to talk about the more recent Concept line.

Code 11.59 Audemars Piguet

Do try it on for yourself. I recommend it. The watch is great. And I did not get paid to say that. Really!

Ending Note: It is my firm belief that Audemars Piguet will come with more and better dial design the coming months. I belive they know they fucked up.

SIHH 2016 was novelty wise a good year. All the major manufactures gave us some challenging watches. Most in a good way, but some in a bad. Audemars Piguet came out with this years most provoking line in my opinion. Who they made these wild colors on the Royal Oak Offshore Diver Chronograph for is beyond me. Usually I can spot what market a watch is made for, but these creatures is impossible to place in any market. Audemars Piguet is taking a risk with these colors and I am anxious to hear how the sales turn out.

SIHH 2016 det beste

Well, it can only be better news from now on. Below I will highlight the watches I really liked from SIHH 2016. You may have seen some already, but I hope to show you a few pieces that you missed.

Timezone watches is a trend this year. The one from IWC turned out better than I had predicted. You may read more on it here.

I already published my A. Lange & Söhne favourites from SIHH 2016 on an other article you may find here.

Audemars Piguet:

Audemars Piguet released a lot of beauties this year opposed to the above selection. They are among the most exciting manufactures in my opinion and that is also why they sometimes fail. However they did not fail on the Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie, a Minute Repeater measuring 44 mm in a Royal Oak Concept titanium casing. Contrasting black open works dial and white gold hands is simplicity in design, but absolutely stunning in execution. A tourbillon and chronograph is a given feature in this price range.

SIHH 2016 det beste

SIHH 2016 det beste

Diamond Fury is a ladies watch with balls. This watch is maybe obvious and excessive, but I find it so attractive with the punk rock appearance and the 4635 brilliant cut diamonds on the bracelet. It took 206 diamonds to cover the dial alone.

SIHH 2016 det beste

The Jules Audemars line is usually overlooked because of the strong Royal Oak line from Audemars Piguet. I am sad to say that this beauty will not be different. Jules Audemars Tourbillon Chronograph in a 18K pink gold case, at 41 mm, with a brown open works dial, is a piece of art in my opinion.

SIHH 2016 det beste

IWC:

IWC launched so many novelties this year that I had a hard time picking my favourites. A favourite amongst all the journalists at SIHH 2016 was Big Pilots Annual Calendar Edition “Le Petit Prince”. One thing is for sure. IWC made this years most gorgeous rotor. I also find the Annual Calendar complication to work very well on this dial. The case is a 46 mm pink gold beauty with the IWC calibre 52850 on the inside.

SIHH 2016

SIHH 2016

I have never tried to cover up my anticipation for Timezoner. You can find my first mention here. And I was not dissapointed. This watch is mean. By pressing the bezel down you can turn it to the correct timezone and release. The watch automatically adjust time and date. IWC is the first manufacture to manage such a complication. The date change both back and forth when passing 24:00. If you want to know the time on the other side of the world before you call a friend there, you just twist and check. The watch comes in a steel casing at 45 mm.

SIHH 2016

This year IWC made a brilliant move with their flagship Pilots. Mark XVIII came back to the simple and trusted dial design and became one millimeter smaller, back to 40 mm. A great entry level watch, but now back to the classic look. Finally.

SIHH 2016

Vacheron Constantin:

First of all you should check out the video on top. That video is pure watchporn, and the new Overseas is hot. The new modular interchangeable bracelet are an attractive new feature, but it is also just the start of the changes on this model. The fact that Vacheron Constantin now are developing their own movements on this line is fantastic news. A real in-house chronograph movement from Vacheron Constantin touches a watch fanatic to the roots.

SIHH 2016

The Patrimony Perpetual Calendar Platine also deserve to be highlighted. Both case and dial is made from platinum. With this remarkably elegant and discreet watch Vacheron Constantin did everything right to honour the 50s moonphase and calendar watches. A modern interpretation in a 41,5 mm case limited to only 100 pieces.

SIHH 2016