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This year I attended SIHH in Geneva for the first time. It was a crazy week and I needed some distance to it before I could write about it. Being a noob in that environment is hard. What to do, were to go, who to talk to – that was my questions before I left my safe office. Thanks to a couple of hardened friends I figured out I had to be everywhere, do everything and talk to as many people as I could. And I did.

For those of you who have not been there, SIHH is a watch fair were brands unveil their novelties for the year. Dealers, journalists and VIPs join in on the fun for the whole week. I was invited by Richemont and went there as a journalist. Before I left I had a wish to see brands and watches that I have never seen or rarely see in Norway. Brands like Audemars Piguet, Kari Voutilinen, HYT, MB & F, Ulysse Nardin, Greubel Forsey, and many more, does not have a Norwegian dealer and is hard to find and study in the flesh here. The SIHH fair is also an opportunity to see and experience rare watches that I will probably never see again, like the new L’ASTRONOMO by Panerai.

Here is my list of what to remember if you decide to go to SIHH (based on hard learned experience):

DOs:

  • Learn the 3 kiss greeting – you may find a norwegian hug cozy, but it is very inappropriate.
  • Hang with a young crowd – they will often say “whaaat….you don’t look forty!” – It’s really amazing.
  • Go to Vacheron Constantin for morning coffee. They have the best barista and coffee in the building.
  • Dress nice. Remember that it is only Kristian Haagen that is allowed to wear beat up cargo pants. He’s earned it, you haven’t.

DONT’s:

  • Not everyone understand Scandinavian humour, and don’t use irony. Ever.
  • Never take off your shoes in public after a long day in the Expo hall.
  • Most important. Never drop a 1 mill EUR watch on the floor – It went well, not a scratch to the watch, but I thought for a second the lady would have a heart attack. I guess I will be banned from ever going to SIHH again.

So that’s it. Learn from a noob.

The rest will be a picture heavy feature. I always intend to give you good quality shots of watches. So it may take some time to load page.

Best of SIHH 2018

SIHH is also an overwhelming sensory experience. All the brands represent themselves with luxurious stands showcasing their watches and novelties.
From the second I entered the massive expo hall I was like a kid in a candy store. Design, artwork, food, drinks, loud music and watches just kept coming at me. Non-stop. So much fun!

Some brands had more interesting novelties than others, and I will try to give you my honest opinion on the best ones. Bare in mind that I like a classic look but I am also weak for modern madness. You’ll seewhen I expose my favorite novelty at the end of this post.

Panerai

If you followed the releases this year you may ask why Panerai is on my best of list. And you are absolutely right. They did not release anything very exciting this year. But what they did was to renew their whole base model lineup. What that means is that they decided to spend SIHH this year scrapping ebauche movements and introducing in-house movements on all their watches. I am all for that!

Also exciting is that they introduced 38 mm Luminor Due. For a smaller wrist  as they say themselves in their presskit. In Scandinavia that is a synonym for ladies. I will finally consider getting a Panerai for my wife.

IWC

Celebrating a 150th anniversary is not something you forget in the watchindustry. And IWC did not either. I had pretty high hopes for this year and I must say that I was a little disappointed at the beginning of the week. Their release was not what I had hoped for. But then I had the opportunity to spend almost an hour fondling their novelties. By the end of that hour I was sold.
What IWC did this year was to introduce lacquered dials on a wide range of their models. Pilots, Portuguese, Portofino, and Da Vinci will be seen in 12 layers of white or blue lacquer. And the new references inspired by the Pallweber pocket watches.

The Pallweber in red gold.IWC Schaffhausen Pallweber SIHH 2018

And the new perpetual calendar with the lacquer dial.IWC perpetual calendar 150th

The beautiful Annual Calendar Pilots watch.IWC Pilots annual calendar sihh 2018 blue

Jaeger LeCoultre

I guess no one could really miss the Polaris release this year. In the norwegian community it certainly stirred up the interest for Jaeger LeCoultre. I have always been a fan of vintage inspired watches, but lately there have just been too many. And as rumors started going about the Polaris being reintroduced a few days before the official release I was sceptical.
Jaeger LeCoultre nailed it! What a beauty. And about time they celebrated this iconic diver.

The MemovoxJaeger LeCoultre Polaris Memovox SIHH 2018

And the good looking golden chronographJaeger LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph Gold SIHH 2018

A. Lange & Söhne

While everyone was talking about the new and groundbreaking triple split I set my eyes on a classic beauty. First I want to say that I cannot be objective when it comes to A. Lange & Söhne. I love what they are trying to do. Making classic after classic and always with an eye for developing new and complicated movements. Always true to their design language and philosophy. You may call them conservative, but I find them to be nothing but uncompromising.

Well, the new Saxonia Moon Phase is nothing but beautiful. It comes in both white and pink gold.alangesohne saxonia moon phase sihh 2018

Another personal favourite was the new 1815 chronograph. I have said it many times. I love that watch.alangesohne 1815 chronograph sihh 2018

And I have to have the triple split in here. Front may look unsuspicious at first glance but the back reveals a complicated watch. Exactly what I am talking about. Design is classic, complication is groundbreaking.alangesohne triple split sihh 2018

alangesohne triple split back sihh 2018

Girard Perregaux

I have to say that I knew nothing about this brand before SIHH. Nothing.
Of course I had seen pictures and had heard about the brand, but I had never touched one, and I had never really buried myself in the details.
I found the Laureato Ceramic Skeleton to be very interesting. The Laureato is a classic GP design, but in the all black ceramic dress and light as a feather it was a nice acquaintance.GP Girard Perregaux Laureato Skeleton Ceramic SIHH 2018

Audemars Piguet

Already trapped in their own Royal Oak they did not release anything but this year. Not of importance anyway. I have no idea what happened to the rest of the references from this respected manufacture.
Still they continue to develop this line of watches with new technical achievements every year.

As with many of the other brands rumors started going in the days before SIHH and pictures of the novelties were revealed. I was once again sceptical before I had my appointment with AP.

This year marks the 25th anniversary of the Royal Oak Offshore. Even though I liked the reedition of the 1993 model of the Offshore my heart skipped a beat when I saw the new case and bezel on the Tourbillon Chronograph. Audemars Piguet is one of the houses that bring us contemporary design features and they are constantly reinterpreting their classic Royal Oak. Watch nerds find this irritating, but I find it refreshing. At least for Audemars Piguet. This has been a strategic direction for them with the Royal Oak for the last few decades. And I like their Rock’n Roll attitude towards their heritage.
I guess similar stunts for the Patek Philippe Nautilus would be heavily frowned upon, even by me.

Audemars Piguet SIHH 2018 Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph

Audemars Piguet SIHH 2018 Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph

The Offshore Chronograph in camo colors was interesting in the flesh.Audemars Piguet Offshore Camo

And of course the RD2 – the 6.3 mm thick perpetual calendar.Audemars Piguet RD2 SIHH 2018

Vacheron Constantin

To finish off with my choice for Best in Show 2018 – the introduction of a new line from Vacheron Constantin – Fiftysix.
Inspired by the ref.6073 from 1956 (of course) they now offer a 40 mm rounded case and almost sector like dials on this new lineup. This was really a much needed facelift to their Quai de l’ile models. I never could swallow that case. In my opinion they now have a much more elegant watch with the elegance I expect from the maison.

Here is the Complete Calendar in pink gold.Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix 56 complete calendar sihh 2018

And the Day Date in steel.Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix 56 day date sihh 2018

That pretty much sums it up. Remember to follow my Instagram for pictures of all the great watches from this year.
And visit my book store.

When most watch collectors talk about the IWC Ingenieur series they think about the handsome Gerald Genta designed Collection SL from 1976 onwards and moving into their modern and sometimes obnoxiously large and technical chronographs. To me IWC’s most important Ingenieur’s were produced 20 years earlier.

I guess many of you know the feeling of falling in love. There is nothing like the tingling feeling and the mixture of anxiety and happiness when you see someone you love, and when I first laid eyes on a vintage IWC Ingenieur ref. 666 – that was how I felt. I know it sounds stupid, but that was it. Watches had been a hobby for a long time, but this watch spoke to me on a level I had not yet experienced. I cannot explain why exactly this model was so interesting to me at that time, or why it made me feel like I did.
Back in 2003 or 2004 I had just started to explore the vintage watch world and I came across this ref. 666. It was too expensive for me at that time but I started to research these older IWC Ingenieur watches.

IWC Ingenieur models

Ref. 666

IWC Ingenieur 3570 866 3233 666

In 1954 the first IWC Ingenieur saw the light of day with the new Cal. 85x movements. It was a pretty modest looking wristwatch, but with the real value on the inside of the case.

These post-war years at the brink of the space age was the era of science. White coats and laboratory’s was the perfect picture of the new age. IWC had for many years been in the forefront of the technical advance of watchmaking with Albert Pellaton running their technical department. So it was only natural to name a family of watches after the rock stars of science, the engineers.

Right after the second world war IWC had made a Pilots watch, the Mark XI, with a manual movement Cal. 89. This movement is known for being super reliable and sturdy. Also this was the first model to have an inner case made of soft iron, to shield the movement from magnetic fields. As you may know, magnetism may interfere with the reliability of the timekeeping properties of a watch.
Taking inspiration from this technical and reliable centre seconds movement, IWC developed the Cal. 852 (no-date) and 8521 (date) in 1953.
Of course all of this was an ingenious marketing strategy. Hailing the technological age with a watch incorporating new technical innovations made for scientists . IWC was branding the watch as “the super time-piece of modern times”.

To me it was probably the sharp dauphine hands and a simple but timeless dial that triggered my affection for the watch at first. Researching the ref. 666 made the connection stronger as I can really appreciate a sober looking watch with technical innovations. It is also a watch that connect a very interesting period of our history to watchmaking and design.

I never got my ref. 666 back then. What I did get for my collection was the then new ref. 3233.

Ref. 3233

IWC Ingenieur 3570 866 3233 666

In 2008 IWC celebrated its 150th anniversary by releasing a Vintage Collection. This collection was really a contemporary reinterpretation of several classic watch models and of course the Ingenieur was one of them. The 3233 kept the dauphine hands and the sober face of the first generation ref.666. Also the case design was taken from the ref. 666.
On the inside IWC put their new in-house Cal. 80111. Here they further developed the values of the early Ingenieur watches with a new shock-absorbing mechanism. Also pressure resistant to 12 bar.
On the 80111 IWC sadly omitted the anti-magnetic soft iron inner case. This feature was kept for other Ingenieur models with the Cal. 80110. What those watches did not have that the ref. 3233 do, is a sapphire glas back where the beauty of the movement can be seen. This would not have been possible with the soft iron inner case. So I guess it was OK.
The only real downside of the ref. 3233 is the size. It is 42 mm and it is thick. Then again, back in 2008 what watch wasn’t?

Ref 866

IWC Ingenieur 3570 866 3233 666

Above you can see the ref 866. I am not going to say much about this one other than it was produced in a couple of series from 1967 to 1976 with a new movement, the cal. 854x. The one on the picture I borrowed from a fellow collector. It probably have newer hands, but according to catalogues they are correct.

Ref. 3570

IWC Ingenieur 3570 866 3233 666
At SIHH 2017 IWC decided to release the ref.3570. Again a new interpretation of the classic IWC Ingenieur. Although IWC claims this model resembles the Ingenieurs of the 1950s, it looks more like the 1970s ref.866 was the inspiration for the design.
The movement on the inside is a Selitta SW 300 built to IWC standards and then modified by the manufacture. This is a robust and reliable movement. The case back is certainly closed, but there is no mentioning of the anti-magnetic properties anywhere. Lacking this feature is no deal braker to me. I mean – who stays in strong magnetic fields these days. What I do find disappointing is that they chose to replace the classic INGENIEUR on the dial with AUTOMATIC.
The good thing about this watch is that the Ingenieur models have gone back to a classic look in a sleek case. Where the ref 3233 was a bit thick and heavy the ref 3570 is thinner and lighter. All in all this watch is a good move by IWC. I love the classic Ingenieur models, and I love the fact that they have gone back to their roots in the whole line of Ingenieur models.

If you want to investigate your own IWC Ingenieur or if you are looking to get one, there is only two online sources of information that I trust – one being MOEB – and the other one being Frizzelweb.

Read more of our articles about IWC Ingenieurs here

After relaunching the new Pilot’s Watch collection at SIHH this year, IWC Schaffhausen has now decided to celebrate the collection’s 80th anniversary with something special for the Benelux and Scandinavian market. An exclusive Big Pilot Watch with a Perpetual Calendar. In a very limited edition.

The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Edition “A Tribute to the 1st IWC Pilot’s Watch” comes in a solid red gold case with a diameter of 46mm and has a slate-grey dial. It is powered by the IWC-manufactured 52610 caliber movement with twin barrels and ceramic movement parts. For this edition, the movement was fitted with luxurious blued screws.

exclusive Big Pilot

Featuring the amazing IWC Perpetual Calendar mechanism, the watch displays the day, date, month, moon phase and year in four digits until 2499 with only a few manual adjustments needed. The efficient Pellaton automatic winding system provides a 7-day power reserve. It’s 18 carat rose gold rotor is engraved with “36” as a reference to how many pieces of this watch were manufactured.

exclusive Big Pilot

“Within the Benelux and the Nordic region, the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch is very popular because of its iconic design. For this reason, we are proud to launch a very special and unique watch which embodies the dream of flying and celebrates the 80th anniversary of this iconic timepiece”, explains Edwin de Vries, IWC Brand Director Benelux & Scandinavia.

With the solid red gold case, the slate-grey dial and the blue alligator leather strap, the watch features a timeless combination of colours and materials. Also, the single moon phase display is rarely seen on a Perpetual Calendar and the blue colour of the sky plays nicely with the blue alligator leather strap.

exclusive Big Pilot

Christian Knoop, Creative Director IWC Schaffhausen, was personally and closely involved in the development of the watch: “From a design perspective, my challenge is to balance our brand’s DNA and to stick to the design codes of IWC, while at the same time trying to create a limited-edition watch that is special, unique and tailored to the taste of a specific market”.

Retailing at € 47.000, – the watch is available at the IWC Boutique in Amsterdam and selected IWC partners within the Benelux and Scandinavia.

Technical Data

Reference:

IWC 5038

Movement:

52610 Manufactured by IWC

Mechanical, Pellaton automatic winding

7 days power reserve

4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour) 1

54 jewels

Indications:

Perpetual calendar and moon phase

Power reserve display

Hours, minutes and small hacking seconds

Case:

18K Red gold

46 mm, 15.5 mm thick

Sapphire crystal front and back

Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 6 bar

Dial:

Ardoise dial

Strap:

Blue alligator leather strap

Buckle:

18K red gold folding clasp

Limitation:

36 watches only for Benelux and Scandinavia

iwc calibre 52610

Goodwood Members Meeting 74th started today on March 19th. Traditionally this is England’s most prestigious meeting for classic cars. Every year Lord March invites cars, owners and enthusiasts to recreate the atmosphere of car racing in the 50s and 60s at his Goodwood estate in Chichester.

IWC Goodwood 74th

This year there will be 12 races during a full weekend. To me the highlight is in Group 5 for race cars and Silver Arrows. The event brings lots of opportunities to see classic cars and race cars that really belong in a museum.

A week before Goodwood 74th I joined in on getting the Silver Arrows ready for racing. Before a race like this the cars are separated into parts and then rebuilt and tuned by specialized mechanics with Mercedes in Stuttgart.

Silver Arrow
Photo by Simon Hofmann/Getty Images

More on the Silver Arrows here. 

The watch manufacture IWC Schaffhausen introduced three classically inspired Ingenieur models at this years Goodwood festival. IWC took upon them the responsibility to ship the legendary W196 og W25 Silver Arrows to England for this event. Since their partnership started with Formula 1 in 2013 the Mercedes AMG Petronas and IWC Schaffhausen have emphasized their fellow values for technical innovation and workmanship. This is also why the Ingenieurs these last few years have had the more modern design expression of Gérald Genta. With the new classic design on the Ingenieur chronographs IWC will connect racing history with watchmaking history. The bond between IWC and Mercedes AMG again makes a lot of sense and in my opinion it grows stronger as we clearly can see the history and tradition from both brands connected.

Silver Arrow
Photo by Simon Hofmann/Getty Images

Ingenieur Chronograph Edition “74th Members’ Meeting at Goodwood” is all about this years event at the southern coast of England. The watch is limited to 74 pieces and comes in a solid red gold case at 42 mm. This case have a more classic expression in contrast to the more technically inspired case from Gérald Gentas typical Ingenieur design. The black dial with the three subdials and tachymeter scale is evidently inspired by the dashboard of a classic sports car. (Ref IW380703)IWC Goodwood 74th

IWC Goodwood 74th

 

Ingenieur Chronograph Edition “Rudolf Caracciola” is a steel watch measuring in at 42 mm and limited to 750 pieces. Rudolf Caracciola was a legendary race car driver who won three european championships in the 1930s. (Ref IW380702)

IWC Goodwood 74th

Ingenieur Chronograph Edition “W125” is picking up on the design from Mercedes Benz W125 Silver Arrow. During the 1930s these cars dominated all the prestigious races. Now IWC presents a great looking 42 mm titanium chronograph limited to 750 pieces.

IWC Goodwood 74th

All these special edition chronographs will be powered by the new in-House calibre 69370 from IWC. Finally IWC launches a new column-wheel movement from inside it’s own quarters. It is nothing more than fantastic news in my opinion. They now have a self-designed and self-built chronograph movement with 46 hours power reserve beating at 4 Hz. How wonderful!IWC Goodwood 74th

 

SIHH 2016 was novelty wise a good year. All the major manufactures gave us some challenging watches. Most in a good way, but some in a bad. Audemars Piguet came out with this years most provoking line in my opinion. Who they made these wild colors on the Royal Oak Offshore Diver Chronograph for is beyond me. Usually I can spot what market a watch is made for, but these creatures is impossible to place in any market. Audemars Piguet is taking a risk with these colors and I am anxious to hear how the sales turn out.

SIHH 2016 det beste

Well, it can only be better news from now on. Below I will highlight the watches I really liked from SIHH 2016. You may have seen some already, but I hope to show you a few pieces that you missed.

Timezone watches is a trend this year. The one from IWC turned out better than I had predicted. You may read more on it here.

I already published my A. Lange & Söhne favourites from SIHH 2016 on an other article you may find here.

Audemars Piguet:

Audemars Piguet released a lot of beauties this year opposed to the above selection. They are among the most exciting manufactures in my opinion and that is also why they sometimes fail. However they did not fail on the Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie, a Minute Repeater measuring 44 mm in a Royal Oak Concept titanium casing. Contrasting black open works dial and white gold hands is simplicity in design, but absolutely stunning in execution. A tourbillon and chronograph is a given feature in this price range.

SIHH 2016 det beste

SIHH 2016 det beste

Diamond Fury is a ladies watch with balls. This watch is maybe obvious and excessive, but I find it so attractive with the punk rock appearance and the 4635 brilliant cut diamonds on the bracelet. It took 206 diamonds to cover the dial alone.

SIHH 2016 det beste

The Jules Audemars line is usually overlooked because of the strong Royal Oak line from Audemars Piguet. I am sad to say that this beauty will not be different. Jules Audemars Tourbillon Chronograph in a 18K pink gold case, at 41 mm, with a brown open works dial, is a piece of art in my opinion.

SIHH 2016 det beste

IWC:

IWC launched so many novelties this year that I had a hard time picking my favourites. A favourite amongst all the journalists at SIHH 2016 was Big Pilots Annual Calendar Edition “Le Petit Prince”. One thing is for sure. IWC made this years most gorgeous rotor. I also find the Annual Calendar complication to work very well on this dial. The case is a 46 mm pink gold beauty with the IWC calibre 52850 on the inside.

SIHH 2016

SIHH 2016

I have never tried to cover up my anticipation for Timezoner. You can find my first mention here. And I was not dissapointed. This watch is mean. By pressing the bezel down you can turn it to the correct timezone and release. The watch automatically adjust time and date. IWC is the first manufacture to manage such a complication. The date change both back and forth when passing 24:00. If you want to know the time on the other side of the world before you call a friend there, you just twist and check. The watch comes in a steel casing at 45 mm.

SIHH 2016

This year IWC made a brilliant move with their flagship Pilots. Mark XVIII came back to the simple and trusted dial design and became one millimeter smaller, back to 40 mm. A great entry level watch, but now back to the classic look. Finally.

SIHH 2016

Vacheron Constantin:

First of all you should check out the video on top. That video is pure watchporn, and the new Overseas is hot. The new modular interchangeable bracelet are an attractive new feature, but it is also just the start of the changes on this model. The fact that Vacheron Constantin now are developing their own movements on this line is fantastic news. A real in-house chronograph movement from Vacheron Constantin touches a watch fanatic to the roots.

SIHH 2016

The Patrimony Perpetual Calendar Platine also deserve to be highlighted. Both case and dial is made from platinum. With this remarkably elegant and discreet watch Vacheron Constantin did everything right to honour the 50s moonphase and calendar watches. A modern interpretation in a 41,5 mm case limited to only 100 pieces.

SIHH 2016

 

OBS – nerdevarsel – denne artikkelen inneholder svært uinteressant tekst med mindre du elsker klokker.

 

IWC ref 325 1942
IWC ref 325 fra 1942

For klokkeentusiaster så er det noen klokker og modeller som blir ikoniske. IWC Portugiese er soleklart en av disse. Årsaken til det er klokkehistorie. 30-årenes tøffe økonomiske og politiske klima tvang de sveitsiske urprodusentene til å endre sitt fokus og se etter nye markeder. På slutten av 1930-tallet ble IWC kontaktet av de portugisiske brødrene Teixera som var på jakt etter et armbåndsur med egenskapene og presisjonen til et marint chronometer. For å oppnå kravene fra brødrene måtte man bygge et lommeur om til et armbåndsur, noe som ledet til klokken som senere skulle bli kalt ref. 325, IWC Portugieser. Modifikasjonen av lommeuret ga et langt større armbåndsur enn det som var datidens mote. Helt frem til ca 1990 så var det vanlig med opptil 35 mm diameter på armbåndsur. Portugiese klokkene hadde 41,5 mm i diameter og 9,5 mm i tykkelse allerede i 1939. Denne tilsynelatende “gigantiske” konstruksjonen gjorde også at det ble solgt relativt få ref 325 i de tidligere årene. Klokkene med dette referansenummeret er derfor ekstremt sjeldene og ettertraktede. Når 41,5 mm diameter i tillegg må sies å være nåtidens mote, så er ikonstatusen er sikret.

 

 

Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) er verdens største og mest betydningsfulle klokkemesse, og hvert eneste år er det en klokkeprodusent eller to som feirer jubileum. I 2015 var det IWC som brukte messen til å markere 75 års jubileet for Portugiese serien. I forkant av klokkemessen ble det lekket at det skulle lanseres to nye modeller og helt nye urverk i Portugiese serien.

SIHH 2016 er rett om hjørnet, men jeg skal ta et tilbakeblikk og se på hvordan det gikk med jubileet og modellene som kom fra IWC for et knapt år siden. Jeg har i løpet av det året også hatt sjansen til å ha flere av klokkene på håndleddet.

To nye modeller

I min spede klokkeentusiast begynnelse så var jeg manisk opptatt av IWC og da spesielt flaggskipet Portugiese. Det var derfor med en ganske stor forventning jeg så for meg de to nye modellene som skulle komme, Annual Calendar (ref 5035) og Date Month (ref 3972). IWC har alltid vært gode på å lage rene og elegante klokker i en symbiose av moderne og klassisk uttrykk. Annual Calendar og Date Month er en videreutvikling av en eksisterende kolleksjon som har hatt enorm suksess. Nye komplikasjoner er alltid krevende å utvikle og produsere. Det er svært spennende med disse nye datokomplikasjonene og IWC bekreftet med denne lanseringen at de fortsatt ser Portugiese som en av sine toppkolleksjoner.

IWC Annual Calendar Date Month
Annual Calendar (t.v), Date Month (t.h)

Det viste seg først og fremst at IWC hadde gjort noen designgrep på hele Portugiese kolleksjonen. De har endret kassedesignet slik at lugsene er blitt betydelig kortere, og de har gitt remmen en konkav avslutning tett opp i mot kassen. Dette er etter min mening det beste designgrepet som har vært gjort på Portugiese serien de siste årene. Klokkene bygger endel, men den nye innfestingen og de korte lugsene gjør klokkene svært behagelige å ha på og de ser også smalere og mer elegante ut. De bæres rett og slett bedre på hånden.

Når det kommer til de to nye modellene, Annual Calendar og Date Month, så er jeg en av dem som har hatt noen problemer med skivedesignet på disse to nye klokkene. Jeg synes de virker litt rotete. Selv ett år etter lansering og flere runder i klokkebutikken så sitter ikke dette designet for meg. Jeg har snakket med mange samlere og entusiaster og jeg er ikke helt alene. Bare nesten. De fleste ser ut til å like designet godt. Så da så.

Den elegante nyheten

I tillegg til de annonserte nyhetene så kom en manuell Portugiese (ref 5102) med 8-dagers kraftreserve og retro skive. Klokkene er limitert til 750 utgaver i stål og 175 i rødt gull. Dette er et design med røtter i Portugiesehistorien og IWC har hentet skivedesignet fra en tilnærmet ukjent ref 325 fra 30-tallet.

Min mening er at denne er en av de virkelige store nyhetene fra IWC fra i fjor. Elegant og med et virkelig godt in-house urverk. I rødt gull med hvit skive så er den nydelig!

IWC Portugiese old vs new - 8 days
ref 325 (t.v), ref 510205 (t.h)
IWC 510206 8 days
IWC 510206 8 dager

Nye in-house urverk

IWC annonserte i januar at de ønsker en generell bevegelse mot å lage alle urverkene sine in-house i Schaffhausen. De har laget endel urverk selv tidligere, men IWC har vært kjent for å produsere modifikasjoner hvor de har brukt såkalte ébauche verk fra ETA og Sellita. De har også vært kjent for å underkommunisere dette. Nå skal de introdusere nye serier med in-house urverk som skal utvikles og produseres ved deres fabrikk i Schaffhausen. De startet nå i 2015 med 52000 serien og Portugiese. De neste årene skal 69000 og 42000 seriene følge.

De nye 52000 urverkene retter opp i problemene som var med de forrige urverkene som satt i Portugiese. Urverkene i den forrige generasjon, 5000 serien, har hatt stabilitetsproblemer og IWC har fått mye kritikk. De har nå økt slagfrekvnesen til 28.800 pr time i den nye 52000 serien. Etter hva jeg har opplevd og hørt fra andre samlere så skal dette nå være løst med de nye urverkene.

Den virkelig gledelige nyheten er at IWC skal bygge en ny fabrikksbygning som skal stå klar i oktober 2016. I denne skal det også være plass til egenproduksjon av kasser og deler. Det ser ut til at vi kan forvente oss mye spennende de neste årene fra IWC.

IWC fabrikk