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About a week back I traded one of my watches with another collector for his Panerai Luminor 1950 10 Days Automatic GMT Ceramica – PAM 335. 

I had never worn a Panerai before and I was curious about them. Of course I am familiar with the brand and their watches, but ten-twelve years back when I got into watches, I did not like Panerai. And I kept it like that for many years. They were obscenely large and lumpy in my opinion. While I liked the design of the dials, I still found them boring as they all seemed to look alike. I could not get my head around them. A GTG (get-together) with other watch nerds changed that in a millisecond when I laid eyes on three totally different Panerai watches. And now I was curious.

Like a true Panerai nerd – or Panerist as they are called – I will continue only using the reference of the watch – PAM 335.

PAM 335

My first impression of the watch is that it is manly. Like beard and buck knife manly. It is 44 mm excluding the large crown guard that all Luminors have. It is of course all black because of the ceramic material. And with the sapphire crystal dome it builds quite a height. A few seconds later, when the watch hit my wrist for the first time, I was sold.

PAM 335PAM 335

The PAM 335 sits beautifully on my wrist. It is very comfortable. Light, discreet, sporty and very graphic. I am slightly amazed that a watch of this size can be worn so comfortably. Hardcore Panerai nerds will only wear 47 mm watches, but that is just too much for me. I love the fact that you can have the Panerai DNA in a small package and I am eagerly awaiting the new Due casing that is slicker and does not build as much.

Well, back to the PAM 335.

PAM 335

Further on the PAM 335:

What is most striking on this watch is the black ceramic case. Bezel and crown guard is also ceramic. The ceramic material will not scratch easily and will allow you to wear the watch without any concerns. There is also an anti-shock device inside the movement. I am not a fan of buying an expensive watch and locking it away. I don’t do that. So this watch is the perfect beater. It can handle about anything you throw at it. Disclaimer – author is not liable if you decide to throw objects at watch or throw the watch itself 😉

A 10 days power reserve will allow you to forget that you have the watch for 10 days without missing a beat. There are three barrels inside powering this movement, so there is plenty of power. The linear power reserve indicator on the dial is lovely, and that brings up my favorite part of this watch. The dial. It is complex, yet refined. There is something about Panerai that makes them able to fit a lot of complications on the dial without messing it up. Breitling has one or two things to learn here. The fact that they have indicators for 24h, seconds, power reserve, date, a second time zone and time all bundled up in a readable and simple manner is amazing.

I love GMTs in general, and while that is worth a post in itself, I will now concentrate on this watch. The GMT function on this watch is so easy to use. It is practical and foolproof. I also love the seconds reset complication. If you should have the need to set the watch, just pull out the crown, and the seconds will return to zero. Eazy.

This is of course no dress watch, but in the one week I have not found one other negative side to this watch. It runs perfectly and it is rugged. It is top of the line Panerai and you deserve one as well!

pam335-5

Movement

Automatic mechanical in-house P.2003 calibre

8 mm thick, 25 jewels, Glucydur® balance

28,800 alternations/hour.

KIF Parechoc® anti-shock device.

10 days Power reserve

Three barrels

Seconds reset device

296 components

Functions

Hours, Minutes, Small Seconds, Date, GMT, 24h indicator, Power Reserve Indicator, Seconds Reset

Case

Diameter 44mm, Black Ceramic, Water Resistance to 10 bar (~100 metres). Smoked see-through sapphire crystal on the back.

Bezel and crown guard

Black ceramic

Dial

Black sandwich dial with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers. Date at 3 o’clock, seconds and 24h indicator at 9 o’clock, linear power reserve indicator at 6 o’clock.

Strap

Buffalo, Black, Tone on tone, 24/22 MM Standard

More on the watch at Panerai.

After relaunching the new Pilot’s Watch collection at SIHH this year, IWC Schaffhausen has now decided to celebrate the collection’s 80th anniversary with something special for the Benelux and Scandinavian market. An exclusive Big Pilot Watch with a Perpetual Calendar. In a very limited edition.

The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Edition “A Tribute to the 1st IWC Pilot’s Watch” comes in a solid red gold case with a diameter of 46mm and has a slate-grey dial. It is powered by the IWC-manufactured 52610 caliber movement with twin barrels and ceramic movement parts. For this edition, the movement was fitted with luxurious blued screws.

exclusive Big Pilot

Featuring the amazing IWC Perpetual Calendar mechanism, the watch displays the day, date, month, moon phase and year in four digits until 2499 with only a few manual adjustments needed. The efficient Pellaton automatic winding system provides a 7-day power reserve. It’s 18 carat rose gold rotor is engraved with “36” as a reference to how many pieces of this watch were manufactured.

exclusive Big Pilot

“Within the Benelux and the Nordic region, the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch is very popular because of its iconic design. For this reason, we are proud to launch a very special and unique watch which embodies the dream of flying and celebrates the 80th anniversary of this iconic timepiece”, explains Edwin de Vries, IWC Brand Director Benelux & Scandinavia.

With the solid red gold case, the slate-grey dial and the blue alligator leather strap, the watch features a timeless combination of colours and materials. Also, the single moon phase display is rarely seen on a Perpetual Calendar and the blue colour of the sky plays nicely with the blue alligator leather strap.

exclusive Big Pilot

Christian Knoop, Creative Director IWC Schaffhausen, was personally and closely involved in the development of the watch: “From a design perspective, my challenge is to balance our brand’s DNA and to stick to the design codes of IWC, while at the same time trying to create a limited-edition watch that is special, unique and tailored to the taste of a specific market”.

Retailing at € 47.000, – the watch is available at the IWC Boutique in Amsterdam and selected IWC partners within the Benelux and Scandinavia.

Technical Data

Reference:

IWC 5038

Movement:

52610 Manufactured by IWC

Mechanical, Pellaton automatic winding

7 days power reserve

4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour) 1

54 jewels

Indications:

Perpetual calendar and moon phase

Power reserve display

Hours, minutes and small hacking seconds

Case:

18K Red gold

46 mm, 15.5 mm thick

Sapphire crystal front and back

Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 6 bar

Dial:

Ardoise dial

Strap:

Blue alligator leather strap

Buckle:

18K red gold folding clasp

Limitation:

36 watches only for Benelux and Scandinavia

iwc calibre 52610

ENDED: In a collaboration with the great manufacture Officine Panerai we offer two beautiful books for our Panerai Giveaway. Both books will be offered in a hardcover protective case. Read more about the books below.

To enter you have to visit and follow our Instagram and Facebook pages through the app on this facebook link. If you already follow us on one or more of our pages, then you just have to visit the pages through the app. To send off the price of the Panerai Giveaway we will need your email, so kindly share it with us. We will not share your private data with anyone. Go to our Privacy Policy page to see how we handle your private data, here.

The first book is a hard to get two volume works on the Special Editions of Panerai from 1997-2014. Every special edition watch is described over two pages with stunningly detailed pictures and every technical detail. This will be the reference guide of Special Edition Panerai watches throughout these years.

Panerai Giveaway - Panerai Special Editions 1997 - 2014 Book

Panerai Giveaway - Panerai Special Editions 1997 - 2014 Book

The second book is the brand new Orologeria Panerai. The book tells the story of the past and present of the Florentine high quality sports watchmaking brand. It consists of five essays covering five different aspects of the identity of Officine Panerai, each one written by a different author. The essays take the reader on a journey through the fascinating worlds which define the distinctive identity of the Florentine brand: the history, the technology, the sea and the design.

The essays by the five authors are accompanied by photographs of extraordinary beauty and evocativeness, covering various times and places as they retrace the steps which brought the Panerai legend into being.

 

Panerai Giveaway - Panerai Orologeria Book

Panerai Giveaway - Panerai Orologeria Book

Goodwood Members Meeting 74th started today on March 19th. Traditionally this is England’s most prestigious meeting for classic cars. Every year Lord March invites cars, owners and enthusiasts to recreate the atmosphere of car racing in the 50s and 60s at his Goodwood estate in Chichester.

IWC Goodwood 74th

This year there will be 12 races during a full weekend. To me the highlight is in Group 5 for race cars and Silver Arrows. The event brings lots of opportunities to see classic cars and race cars that really belong in a museum.

A week before Goodwood 74th I joined in on getting the Silver Arrows ready for racing. Before a race like this the cars are separated into parts and then rebuilt and tuned by specialized mechanics with Mercedes in Stuttgart.

Silver Arrow
Photo by Simon Hofmann/Getty Images

More on the Silver Arrows here. 

The watch manufacture IWC Schaffhausen introduced three classically inspired Ingenieur models at this years Goodwood festival. IWC took upon them the responsibility to ship the legendary W196 og W25 Silver Arrows to England for this event. Since their partnership started with Formula 1 in 2013 the Mercedes AMG Petronas and IWC Schaffhausen have emphasized their fellow values for technical innovation and workmanship. This is also why the Ingenieurs these last few years have had the more modern design expression of Gérald Genta. With the new classic design on the Ingenieur chronographs IWC will connect racing history with watchmaking history. The bond between IWC and Mercedes AMG again makes a lot of sense and in my opinion it grows stronger as we clearly can see the history and tradition from both brands connected.

Silver Arrow
Photo by Simon Hofmann/Getty Images

Ingenieur Chronograph Edition “74th Members’ Meeting at Goodwood” is all about this years event at the southern coast of England. The watch is limited to 74 pieces and comes in a solid red gold case at 42 mm. This case have a more classic expression in contrast to the more technically inspired case from Gérald Gentas typical Ingenieur design. The black dial with the three subdials and tachymeter scale is evidently inspired by the dashboard of a classic sports car. (Ref IW380703)IWC Goodwood 74th

IWC Goodwood 74th

 

Ingenieur Chronograph Edition “Rudolf Caracciola” is a steel watch measuring in at 42 mm and limited to 750 pieces. Rudolf Caracciola was a legendary race car driver who won three european championships in the 1930s. (Ref IW380702)

IWC Goodwood 74th

Ingenieur Chronograph Edition “W125” is picking up on the design from Mercedes Benz W125 Silver Arrow. During the 1930s these cars dominated all the prestigious races. Now IWC presents a great looking 42 mm titanium chronograph limited to 750 pieces.

IWC Goodwood 74th

All these special edition chronographs will be powered by the new in-House calibre 69370 from IWC. Finally IWC launches a new column-wheel movement from inside it’s own quarters. It is nothing more than fantastic news in my opinion. They now have a self-designed and self-built chronograph movement with 46 hours power reserve beating at 4 Hz. How wonderful!IWC Goodwood 74th

 

SIHH 2016 was novelty wise a good year. All the major manufactures gave us some challenging watches. Most in a good way, but some in a bad. Audemars Piguet came out with this years most provoking line in my opinion. Who they made these wild colors on the Royal Oak Offshore Diver Chronograph for is beyond me. Usually I can spot what market a watch is made for, but these creatures is impossible to place in any market. Audemars Piguet is taking a risk with these colors and I am anxious to hear how the sales turn out.

SIHH 2016 det beste

Well, it can only be better news from now on. Below I will highlight the watches I really liked from SIHH 2016. You may have seen some already, but I hope to show you a few pieces that you missed.

Timezone watches is a trend this year. The one from IWC turned out better than I had predicted. You may read more on it here.

I already published my A. Lange & Söhne favourites from SIHH 2016 on an other article you may find here.

Audemars Piguet:

Audemars Piguet released a lot of beauties this year opposed to the above selection. They are among the most exciting manufactures in my opinion and that is also why they sometimes fail. However they did not fail on the Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie, a Minute Repeater measuring 44 mm in a Royal Oak Concept titanium casing. Contrasting black open works dial and white gold hands is simplicity in design, but absolutely stunning in execution. A tourbillon and chronograph is a given feature in this price range.

SIHH 2016 det beste

SIHH 2016 det beste

Diamond Fury is a ladies watch with balls. This watch is maybe obvious and excessive, but I find it so attractive with the punk rock appearance and the 4635 brilliant cut diamonds on the bracelet. It took 206 diamonds to cover the dial alone.

SIHH 2016 det beste

The Jules Audemars line is usually overlooked because of the strong Royal Oak line from Audemars Piguet. I am sad to say that this beauty will not be different. Jules Audemars Tourbillon Chronograph in a 18K pink gold case, at 41 mm, with a brown open works dial, is a piece of art in my opinion.

SIHH 2016 det beste

IWC:

IWC launched so many novelties this year that I had a hard time picking my favourites. A favourite amongst all the journalists at SIHH 2016 was Big Pilots Annual Calendar Edition “Le Petit Prince”. One thing is for sure. IWC made this years most gorgeous rotor. I also find the Annual Calendar complication to work very well on this dial. The case is a 46 mm pink gold beauty with the IWC calibre 52850 on the inside.

SIHH 2016

SIHH 2016

I have never tried to cover up my anticipation for Timezoner. You can find my first mention here. And I was not dissapointed. This watch is mean. By pressing the bezel down you can turn it to the correct timezone and release. The watch automatically adjust time and date. IWC is the first manufacture to manage such a complication. The date change both back and forth when passing 24:00. If you want to know the time on the other side of the world before you call a friend there, you just twist and check. The watch comes in a steel casing at 45 mm.

SIHH 2016

This year IWC made a brilliant move with their flagship Pilots. Mark XVIII came back to the simple and trusted dial design and became one millimeter smaller, back to 40 mm. A great entry level watch, but now back to the classic look. Finally.

SIHH 2016

Vacheron Constantin:

First of all you should check out the video on top. That video is pure watchporn, and the new Overseas is hot. The new modular interchangeable bracelet are an attractive new feature, but it is also just the start of the changes on this model. The fact that Vacheron Constantin now are developing their own movements on this line is fantastic news. A real in-house chronograph movement from Vacheron Constantin touches a watch fanatic to the roots.

SIHH 2016

The Patrimony Perpetual Calendar Platine also deserve to be highlighted. Both case and dial is made from platinum. With this remarkably elegant and discreet watch Vacheron Constantin did everything right to honour the 50s moonphase and calendar watches. A modern interpretation in a 41,5 mm case limited to only 100 pieces.

SIHH 2016

Vet du ikke helt hva du skal kjøpe til dama til jul?

Hva med en klassisk og tidløs Breguet Classique Phase de Lune Dame ref.9088?

Klokken lanseres av Breguet i dag som en forsmak på det som kommer under Basel messen senere i 2016. Klokken er i hvitt gull, 30 mm i diameter med den vanlige klassiske Breguet kassen. Denne kassen kommer med tilsammen 1,04 karat brilliantskårne diamanter. Skiven er emaljert med Breguet timeindeks og Breguet visere. Minuttvisningen som er laget som små stjerner, og månefasen ved klokken 6, gir tilsammen et klassisk elegant og feminint uttrykk.

Klokken kommer også i varianter med rødt gull og uten diamanter.

Dersom kona/dama fortjener en seriøs klokke så kan vi også opplyse om at det sitter et Breguet 537L urverk med automatikk på innsiden. Innsynet til urverket, gjennom safirglasset på baksiden, avslører en tradisjonell Côtes de Genève decorering av broene i god tradisjon.

Breguet føres av både Urmaker Tidemann og Urmaker Bjerke.

God Jul!

Breguet Classique Phase de Lune Dame