Today is obviously the day for exclusives. A. Lange & Söhne presented a special edition of the LANGE 1 TIME
ZONE honey gold today.
The date 25. october 2016 is no coincidence. It recalls the presentation of the first Lange collection 22 years ago in Dresden. Featuring a subtle detail on the rotating city ring, Central European Time is represented by Dresden.
The LANGE 1 TIME ZONE has ranked among the most popular models of the LANGE 1 watch family since 2005. The clearly organised dial delivers a single-glance reading of home time and the time in a second time zone. The time zone is set with a lateral pusher. It advances the rotating city ring with the 24 place names from west to east. On the ring, Dresden – instead of Berlin as in the standard version – represents Central European Time.
Additionally, the hour hand on the small subsidiary dial moves forward by one step with each actuation of the pusher. An ingenious synchronisation mechanism also makes it possible to transfer the zone time on the subsidiary dial to the main dial.
Subtle colour changes in the design of the city ring differentiate it from the standard version. The dots between the city names and GMT are blue instead of red. Now, the previously black peripheral ring of the second time zone has the same blue hue as well.
The case in 18-carat honey gold has a diameter of 41.9 millimetres. The exclusive material is harder than other gold alloys. The lavishly hand-finished manufacture calibre L031.1 is assembled twice and has a power reserve of three days.
Limited to 100 watches, the Dresden edition of the LANGE 1 TIME ZONE is available exclusively in the 17 A. Lange & Söhne boutiques.
Yesterday A. Lange & Söhne revealed the new Richard Lange Pour le Méritein a white gold case and black dial limited to only 218 watches. It may look innocent on the outside, but inside there is a mean machine.
Since the revival of A. Lange & Söhne in the autumn of 1994, the exclusive timepieces with the attribute Pour le Mérite have represented the technological avant-garde at A. Lange & Söhne. Each of the four models launched so far is endowed with a fusée-and-chain mechanism. The Richard Lange Pour le Mérite, first introduced in 2009, exemplifies an ambitious tribute to precision in its purest form. The sole objective of its complication is to improve rate accuracy.
The fusée-and-chain mechanism guarantees constant torque and thus stability of the amplitude of the balance across the entire power-reserve range. Wrapped around the mainspring barrel, the chain delivers the power of the mainspring to the wheel train via the cone-shaped fusée. This keeps the torque constant. In principle, the mechanism works like the gearing of a bicycle except that the gear ratios are infinitely variable rather than fixed.
The 636-part chain can support a weight of over two kilograms. But to fully exploit the positive effect of the fusée-and-chain device, the product developers added a technical refinement: two separate mechanisms block the winding system before fully wound and fully unwound states. Both prevent the chain – which is only 0.25 millimetres thick and 156 millimetres long – from being overstressed.
The fusée-and-chain transmission causes the fusée to rotate in one direction during the winding process and in the opposite direction when the watch is running. For this reason, it is necessary to ensure that the watch continues to run even when it is being wound. An elaborate planetary gearing inside the fusée maintains the flow of power from the fusée to the movement during the winding phase. It is composed of 38 tiny parts which the watchmaker must fit into the tight 8.6-millimetre inside diameter of the fusée.
All this remains concealed beneath the black dial of the Richard Lange Pour le Mérite. But the most important parts of the fusée-and-chain device are clearly visible through the sapphire-crystal caseback.
In september 2015 Vacheron Constantin unveiled the most complicated watch ever seen. A pocketwatch with 57 complications known as ref 57260. The development of the superpocketwatch took 8 years for 3 superwatchmakers. Now Vacheron Constantin have let the same three watchmakers come up with a series of new watches based on the complications from ref 57260. In this first watch,Montre Pièce Unique Calibre 1990, they ended up using a double retrograde system and an armillary tourbillon.
The Caliber 1990 have both retrograde hours and minutes with instant flyback.
The tourbillon system is based on a 1880s astronomical watch with an armillary sphere. The balancespring have a spherical design that is making the two axis rotation possible. That is as far as I got before my head almost exploded. If you need more details, check out at Vacheron Constantin. Link below.
No matter how complicated in mechanics and theory, this watch is simply beautiful. In my opinion this watch represents a radical new direction for Vacheron Constantin. They usually tend to keep it classic and conservative. This is a push towards avant garde that I find fascinating and promising. I like it!
The watch is one of a kind with a 45.7 mm case in 18K white gold. 20 mm thick. The price is unknown, but it will cost you!
SIHH 2016 was novelty wise a good year. All the major manufactures gave us some challenging watches. Most in a good way, but some in a bad. Audemars Piguet came out with this years most provoking line in my opinion. Who they made these wild colors on the Royal Oak Offshore Diver Chronograph for is beyond me. Usually I can spot what market a watch is made for, but these creatures is impossible to place in any market. Audemars Piguet is taking a risk with these colors and I am anxious to hear how the sales turn out.
Well, it can only be better news from now on. Below I will highlight the watches I really liked from SIHH 2016. You may have seen some already, but I hope to show you a few pieces that you missed.
Timezone watches is a trend this year. The one from IWC turned out better than I had predicted. You may read more on ithere.
I already published my A. Lange & Söhne favourites from SIHH 2016 on an other article you may find here.
Audemars Piguet released a lot of beauties this year opposed to the above selection. They are among the most exciting manufactures in my opinion and that is also why they sometimes fail. However they did not fail on the Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie, a Minute Repeater measuring 44 mm in a Royal Oak Concept titanium casing. Contrasting black open works dial and white gold hands is simplicity in design, but absolutely stunning in execution. A tourbillon and chronograph is a given feature in this price range.
Diamond Fury is a ladies watch with balls. This watch is maybe obvious and excessive, but I find it so attractive with the punk rock appearance and the 4635 brilliant cut diamonds on the bracelet. It took 206 diamonds to cover the dial alone.
The Jules Audemars line is usually overlooked because of the strong Royal Oak line from Audemars Piguet. I am sad to say that this beauty will not be different. Jules Audemars Tourbillon Chronograph in a 18K pink gold case, at 41 mm, with a brown open works dial, is a piece of art in my opinion.
IWC launched so many novelties this year that I had a hard time picking my favourites. A favourite amongst all the journalists at SIHH 2016 was Big Pilots Annual Calendar Edition “Le Petit Prince”. One thing is for sure. IWC made this years most gorgeous rotor. I also find the Annual Calendar complication to work very well on this dial. The case is a 46 mm pink gold beauty with the IWC calibre 52850 on the inside.
I have never tried to cover up my anticipation for Timezoner. You can find my first mention here. And I was not dissapointed. This watch is mean. By pressing the bezel down you can turn it to the correct timezone and release. The watch automatically adjust time and date. IWC is the first manufacture to manage such a complication. The date change both back and forth when passing 24:00. If you want to know the time on the other side of the world before you call a friend there, you just twist and check. The watch comes in a steel casing at 45 mm.
This year IWC made a brilliant move with their flagship Pilots. Mark XVIII came back to the simple and trusted dial design and became one millimeter smaller, back to 40 mm. A great entry level watch, but now back to the classic look. Finally.
First of all you should check out the video on top. That video is pure watchporn, and the new Overseas is hot.The new modular interchangeable bracelet are an attractive new feature, but it is also just the start of the changes on this model. The fact that Vacheron Constantin now are developing their own movements on this line is fantastic news. A real in-house chronograph movement from Vacheron Constantin touches a watch fanatic to the roots.
The Patrimony Perpetual Calendar Platine also deserve to be highlighted. Both case and dial is made from platinum. With this remarkably elegant and discreet watch Vacheron Constantin did everything right to honour the 50s moonphase and calendar watches. A modern interpretation in a 41,5 mm case limited to only 100 pieces.
SIHH 2016: A. Lange & Söhne: SIHH 2016 is happening as we speak and novelties from all manufactures are puring into my mailbox. A. Lange & Söhne launched a couple of goodies that I want to share with you. Above you can see the new version of a cult classic, the Lange 1 “Lumen”,now with moonphase. A new tourbillon Datograph with a black dial is also very exciting news.
A. Lange & Söhnenamed their new black beauty Datograph PerpetualTourbillon. They spent a lot of time and resources on combining several complex mechanisms in a movement with the established A. Lange & Söhne feel. I believe it is a smart move to launch this watch with the black dial. The aesthetics of the Datograph is kept and the black plays well with the 41,5 mm platinum case. Inside you will find a L952.2 movement. The watch is limited to only 100 pieces. See a video of the watch at A. Lange & Söhne.
Saxonia Moon Phase comes in bothwhite gold and pink gold. It is a clear cultivation of the Saxonia line. The balance in the dial design with the date at 12 o’clock and the moon phase at 6 o’clock gives this watch an elegant and classic look. The case is 40 mm. One other special thing about this watch is that it will run continuously without the need to reset for 122,6 years. It has a power reserve of 72h, but wind it and it will last two lifetimes. That is impressive for a relatively inexpensive watch.
The classic Lange 1 now comes in a 38,5 mm white gold case. After the relaunch last year of the new and improved L121.1 movement, this edition is a welcomed addition to the pink gold, yellow gold and platinum.
A new Richard Lange watch is nothing but spectacular. The fact that A. Lange & Söhne have wanted to do a jumping seconds is not that unexpected, but when it turns out to be as good as the new Richard Lange Jumping Seconds, then I am all in. The platinum case measures 39,9 mm, and the dial is a beautiful Regulator style dial. A constant-force mechanism keeps perfect time throughout the entire deload of the spring. Power reserve is 42 h, and at 10 h remaining there will be a red indicator at 4 o’clock. The watch comes limited to 100 pieces.
Finally there will be a new edition to the 2013 cult classic “Lumen”. Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase “Lumen” discloses that it is a moon phase, but the production of this luminous moon is quite special. The moon dial is cut in glass and there have been 1164 stars embossed in the glass by a special laser technique. The luminous material have been placed on the back of this glass. The main dial is made of a special black glass that only permits the UV spectrum that charge the lumen to come through. 72 h power reserve and a 41 mm platinum case.
Vet du ikke helt hva du skal kjøpe til dama til jul?
Hva med en klassisk og tidløs Breguet Classique Phase de Lune Dame ref.9088?
Klokken lanseres av Breguet i dag som en forsmak på det som kommer under Basel messen senere i 2016. Klokken er i hvitt gull, 30 mm i diameter med den vanlige klassiske Breguet kassen. Denne kassen kommer med tilsammen 1,04 karat brilliantskårne diamanter. Skiven er emaljert med Breguet timeindeks og Breguet visere. Minuttvisningen som er laget som små stjerner, og månefasen ved klokken 6, gir tilsammen et klassisk elegant og feminint uttrykk.
Klokken kommer også i varianter med rødt gull og uten diamanter.
Dersom kona/dama fortjener en seriøs klokke så kan vi også opplyse om at det sitter et Breguet 537L urverk med automatikk på innsiden. Innsynet til urverket, gjennom safirglasset på baksiden, avslører en tradisjonell Côtes de Genève decorering av broene i god tradisjon.
Se vårt intervju med A.Lange & Söhne CEO Wilhelm Schmid over.
Artikkelen fortsetter under.
Langt ute på den østtyske landsbygda, utenfor Dresden, ligger den lille byen Glashütte. Byen ligger idyllisk til ved en vakker elv som renner i gjennom byen og strekker seg langs de skogkledte åsene på hver side, men dette er ikke en søvnig liten by. Av de 4000 fastboende sysselsettes 25 % av klokkeindustrien, og nesten alle de tyske manufakturene (klokkeprodusentene) holder hus i byen.
Klokkeeventyret i Glashütte startet med Adolph Lange i 1845. Han etablerte de første små fabrikkene i byen og bygget opp en kompetanse gjennom de neste årene som tiltrakk seg både urmakere, studenter, gründere og ikke minst kunder. Mektige kunder. Alt fra den russiske tsar til tyske presidenter og danske kongelige hadde lommeur fra A.Lange & Söhne.
I 1948 ble fabrikken overtatt av kommuniststyret i DDR, og familien Lange rømte til vest. Etter murens fall dro Walther Lange, Adolph Langes tippoldebarn, i 1990 tilbake til Glashütte for å gjenreise manufakturet. Dermed startet den moderne industrihistorien i Glashütte.
I dag er A.Lange & Söhne regnet som ett av verdens beste manufaktur og har en en årlig produksjon på rundt 6000 armbåndsur. Hvis du som leser tror at det er snakk om masseproduksjon, så kan vi røpe at det ikke er noe ledd i produksjonslinjen som minner om masseproduksjon. I fabrikken sitter det urmakere som følger klokken fra den er i deler til den er ferdig. Hver klokke inneholder 300-1000 komponenter, og de tilpasses og settes sammen for hånd.
Hos A.Lange & Söhne er de stolte av dette håndverket og av tradisjonen. Når man besøker manufakturet så kjenner man det på atmosfæren. Den er vennlig og uformell, og urmakerne man støter på i gangene eller ved pultene viser tydelig stoltheten og gleden over det de produserer.
A.Lange & Söhne bruker likevel ikke tradisjon som et hvileskjær. De er blant verdens mest innovative manufakturer og lanserer stadig nye og forbedrede urverk. Nå sist etter SIHH (Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie – årlig klokkemesse) ble det lansert et nytt urverk til Lange 1. Denne klokken er en av manufakturets mest ikoniske klokker og ble lansert i den første kolleksjonen etter gjenreisingen i 1994.
Denne 2.generasjons modellen av Lange 1 er tilsynelatende uendret. Det er bare utenpå. På innsiden tikker et helt nytt og forbedret urverk. “Don’t change a winning horse” er et uttrykk de ikke respekterer hos A.Lange &Söhne.
Anthony de Haas er sjefsutvikler hos A.Lange & Söhne, og på spørsmål om hvorfor de endrer en suksess svarer han:
-Det har skjedd mye i utviklingen av urverk de siste 20 årene. Nå er Lange 1 klar for 20 nye år.
Det blir som å si “vi gjør det ikke fordi vi trenger, vi gjør det fordi vi kan”.
Det er koblingen mellom tradisjon og innovasjon som gjør A.Lange & Söhne så interessant, og det er denne viljen til å gjøre det ekstra som gjør at manufakturet er elsket av entusiaster verden over.
Når man i tillegg tar i betraktning de lave produksjonstallene, og at de aldri bruker salgstriksene som er blitt vanlig i bransjen med limiterte utgaver og sponsing av artister eller tennisspillere, så blir det eksklusivt å eie en A.Lange & Söhne.
Hvis du har en klokke på armen herfra så er det ingen bortsett fra andre entusiaster som legger merke til det. Det er ikke en Rolex eller en Patek Phillipe. Det er en A.Lange & Söhne.
Kassen er produsert i hvitt gull og skiven i sølv med blå timeindekser og pulsometer skala. Klokken har L951.5 urverket fra A.Lange & Söhne med “jumping minute”, “flyback” og kraftreserve på hele 60 timer.
Se vår ordliste lengre ned.
Kronograf (chronograph) er en mekanisk stoppeklokke.
Pulsometer skala kan brukes til å telle puls på en enkel måte. Ved å starte stoppeklokken samtidig med å starte å telle pulsslag og stoppe den når du har kommet til 30 slag, så kan slag pr minutt leses av på skalaen.
Jumping Minute er en funksjon som betyr at klokken hopper nøyaktig fra minutt til minutt. Andre mekaniske klokker har en mer glidende gang på minuttviseren.
Flyback er en kronograf funksjon hvor man ved å trykke inn en knapp setter stoppeklokkeviseren tilbake i nullposisjon.
Kraftreserve angir klokken egenskap til å lagre energi over tid. Dette varierer i stor grad mellom de mekaniske klokkene.
-We have passion, says big brother and master watchmaker Lars Christian when I ask how Tidemann Watches managed to establish a luxury watch boutique in record time. Tom Andre, is both the younger brother and manager of the boutique. He nods. Ironically they opened the doors to their boutique on Black Monday of 2008. Dow Jones took a plunge on Monday 6th of October 2008, and the rest of the world markets followed. This date will forever go into history as the day when the stock markets crashed.
When I visit the store 7 years later the brothers have just received the first delivery of watches from one of the leading manufacturers of luxury watches. The delivery from A. Lange & Söhne marks Tidemann Watches position in the norwegian luxury market.
Glashütte Original was the first brand the brothers signed.
-We worked hard with this brand. We established Glashütte Original in the norwegian market, and we established our boutique with this brand. Says the brothers. Their success with GO was noticed in Switzerland and more brands followed. Today they have Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger LeCoultre, Cartier, Piaget and Frederique Constant. Signing on A. Lange & Söhne is the icing on the cake.
-The fact that we managed to sign all these great brands is something we are incredibly proud of, says Lars Christian.
-Look at these watches from A. Lange & Söhne. The bear every sign of great workmanship. Lars Christian’s eyes glow. We are back to the passion. His arms wave in every direction and he runs to the back of the store, where his workshop is, to show me a pocketwatch he is servicing.
-Look at this beauty! An A. Lange & Söhne 1891 pocket watch. Look at this. The movement looks as good as new. Look at how the balance swings. He is almost shouting now.
Already a watchaddict, Lars Christian and a friend started hanging around in the boutique and the workshop of Alf Lie as kids. He graduated a watchmaker in the late 90s and took over Norways oldest workshop in Fagernes.
Tom Andre have always had the interest for watches. But he ended up a lawyer. A chance meeting with a Lange 1 in the storefront window of Wempe in Germany made his destiny.
-Right there and then I knew I had to get A. Lange & Söhne to Norway. That was my life goal. Now we are there, he says with a big smile on.
-Now we have two of the top brands in the watch industry. Vacheron Constantin and A. Lange & Söhne. It is exciting how these brands manage to make contemporary and innovative watches still with a deep respect for their history and heritage. These watches are all top level workmanship. Art.
-In a time where you change your smartphone once a year these watch brands represent the antipode. The mechanical watch symbolize something lasting. They last for hundreds of years and for generations.
In 2008 the brothers had a goal to sign on the first top brand within 10 years. It had been the dream of Tom Andre since his trip to Germany, but the Tidemann brothers never expected A. Lange & Söhne to the boutique in just 7 years.
-We hoped for one of the five big ones in 10 years. It is usually 50 years to build a portfolio like ours. The brands we have now is the brands we aimed for 7 years ago. Mission accomplished.
Tidemann Watches is located in between Mulberry and Louis Vuitton in one of Oslos main streets for luxury. The brothers did not have an easy start in this location.
-With the world economy at it’s knees there where no banks willing to invest in our project. We had to roll up our sleeves and do the job ourselves.
-It has been an extreme amount of hard work and we have both sacrificed a lot to get this boutique to the level we aimed for. It is amazing what you can accomplish when you are driven by passion. At the same time we have to realize that we need to be here for our customers and it’s been nice to experience how well both the norwegian and international customers have welcomed us. We are happy to create lifelong relationships with our customers every single day, says Tom Andre.
What Tidemann Watches have managed to establish in just 7 years is nothing but spectacular. They have both been an important driver for the growth in the norwegian watch market and they have challenged the established businesses in the industry. The result is a larger variety of brands over all in norway. The victor of all this is the watch enthusiast.